Introducing the world of Noh : Costumes


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The costume used for Noh dramas is called Noh shōzoku (Noh costume).

Typical costumes include "karaori (karaori outer robe)," which is used as outerwear for female characters. Karaori is traditional and prestigious garment, and one of the most glittering and gorgeous costumes in stage art in the world.

It is said that the Noh costume in the era of Kannami and Zeami was simple because they used everyday clothing. However, after they gained the patronage of feudal lords including the family of the Shogun and aristocrats, these patrons gave their garments as rewards to Noh actors, and Noh actors started to use those gorgeous garments for performance. Along with the flowering of gorgeous culture of the Azuchi-Momoyama era, the Noh costume developed and became important as first-class art.

A Noh costume, which is a piece of fine art, does not present the reality of the character. For example, a Noh actor who performs a poor fisherman or a sea-salt gatherer, does not wear the type of clothing that people in these occupations actually wore at that time. Noh dramas stylize and symbolically express the character through the costume.

Types of Noh Costume

Noh costume is classified into seven different kinds.

Kazura (wig): katsura (wig), kashira, etc.
Kaburi-mono (headdress): eboshi, tengan, etc.
Uwagi (outerwear): nōshi, kariginu, happi, chōken, maiginu, etc.
Kitsuke (a kind of kosode (a type of kimono), which is wore under the uwagi): surihaku, nuihaku, noshime, etc.
For both Uwagi and kitsuke: karaori, atsuita, etc.
Hakama (Japanese pleated loose-fitting trousers): ōkuchi, hangiri, sashinuki, nagabakama, etc.
Other small items: kazura-obi, koshi-obi, koshimino, etc.

Representative Noh Costume

Karaori (Karaori Outer Robe) is a gorgeous costume, which is a representative among Noh costumes. It is mainly used as an outer robe for a female character. "Karaori" means "Chinese-style textile," and it is said that it originally copied Shokkō silk brocade. It is a kosode (a type of kimono), which is woven by ukiori technique for its flower designs and patterns with gold, silver, and other colorful threads.

Female characters in the Noh drama normally wear karaori in "kinagashi" style. In the "kinagashi" style, a Noh actor wears the neck of the outer robe wide open and closes the bottom of the robe. The style makes an inverted triangle silhouette, which gives an impression of sophistication to the audience.

Style of Noh Costume

Although Noh costumes do not describe characters realistically, there are rules of combination for particular characters. Therefore, if you know the rules, you can gain considerable understanding from the costume, including gender, age, status, occupation, and the personality of the Noh character.

One of the remarkable rules is the color of the costume. Within the costume for female characters, one with red on it is called "iroiri," and one without red is called "ironashi." "Iroiri (costume with red color)" is for young women, and "ironashi" is for middle-aged women. This rule is applicable not only to outerwear such as karaori but also to other items, including kazura-obi worn on a wig, and koshi-obi.

Also, there are rules for the color and style of the collar of Noh costume. The collar of Noh costume has colors such as white, asagi (pale yellow), red, dark blue, moe (yellow-green), and the color layers of the collar determine the status of the character. Since white is recognized as the color of purity and innocence, thereby significant in Noh art, the double layer of white collars is recognized as the highest dignity.

It is the shite who decides what he wears on the stage. The Noh actor can express his personality through the choice of costume since he can make own design and combination of colors so long as he follows the rules.

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